Marrakech: The Top 5

Our selfies need a little work

We came back over a month ago, and I still smile when I think about the long, sleepy days we spent exploring. I wish we had more time (don’t we always!) to do all the things we never got a chance to do –browse the galleries and cafes in New City, spend more time in the mountains, spend a day near the coast in Tangier, lie on the beach in Essaouira, wander around Casablanca. Still, we were shockingly “productive” for a couple that napped for a few hours before dinner everyday. 

Number 1: Fall in love via your stomach.  

If we had more time, I would’ve loved to take a cooking class. Marrakech has a few famous ones – La Maison Arabe is probably the most well known – but our Airbnb host told us that there were much homier ones scattered across the city. Moroccan cuisine was so different from anything that we had ever eaten. It was very much Mediterranean, but grounded by Berber and Arabic influences and with a hint of something subtropical, with the spices reminding me a little bit of both Spain and India – think olives, lemons, tumeric, saffron, paprika, cumin and melt-in-your-mouth buttery roasted meat.

Falafel doughnuts and chicken from Roti D’Or

Number 2: Cram into the front seat of a grand taxi.

Riding in a grand taxi is an adventure in and of itself. These taxis are about the same size as an ordinary sedan, but the drivers are able to cram in 6 passengers – 2 in the front, 4 in the back. The taxi won’t leave until all (or at least most) of the seats are filled, so you could be sitting there for a while. One of our taxis got stuck in the dirt and had some engine problems, but that was solved by a solid push from behind. Negotiate your price ahead of time. And try to claim a window seat!

For eco-friendly travel, you could also take a camel

Number 3: Get some greenery.

Marrakech has so many parks and gardens, all of them filled with beautiful orange and lemon trees and cacti that are taller than me. We stumbled upon Cyber Park – more correctly, Jerry found it – which is lush and big and gorgeous, and filled with orange trees, lemon trees, and lots of flowering desert plants. And cats, of course. La Mamounia has it’s own private gardens, and then of course, there is the famous Jardin Majourelle – designed by Yves St Laurent and overflowing with exotic cacti species (but no cats).

Jacque Majorelle painted his garden in beautiful, intense colors like this blue – meant to capture the Atlas mountains

Feels a bit like someone laid out a red carpet through a dense, lush forest

Even the city was overflowing with plant life – a gorgeous contrast of green against that dusty pink clay

Orange trees tower over their shrubbery counterparts in Cyber Park

Number 4: Find your inner artist.

The city itself is filled with creative inspiration, from the dusty pink of the clay walls that captures the sunlight during sunrise and sunset, to the gorgeous floor tiles covering the palace floors. We loved Bahia Palace, which is right in the center of the city and lovely escape from the bustle of the Medina outside. The intricate carvings in each of the arches, the large, spacious open courtyards, the incredible painted ceilings and stained glass windows were impecabbly maintained. Just beware the large (and loud) tour groups. The nearby Saadian tombs (overflowing with cats) are also lovely and worth a visit.

Follow me down this dark pink alleyway…

The details and intricate carvings in the tombs are incredible

The palace was filled with lovely coutyards and opened up to a gorgeous, leafy green garden

Not only were doors and window shutters beautifully decorated…

… so were the windows themselves! Must be nice, being a 19th century prince

There are hidden art galleries all over the place. In fact, the best art may be hanging on the walls of refurbished riads, tucked in quiet alleys around the Medina. Our Airbnb host, a Swedish tile/graphics designer, introduced us to El Fenn, a funky riad around the corner with a lovely rooftop bar and an incredible modern art collection.

Number 5: Take the train.

The Moroccan rail system was built mainly by the French, when Morocco was a French colony. Today, the ONCF operates the rail lines across the nation. We decided to take the overnight train from Marrakech to Tangier on our last day. ONCF tickets can only be purchased in the country or with a Moroccan credit card online (the dirham is a closed currency) – if you want to book in advance, we’re recommend Marrakech Tickets. They pick up your tickets before you arrive and donate a portion of their proceeds to charity. Peter met us on our first day and we were all set.

The beds come with sheets and pillows, elephant pants not included

The train ride was a lot of fun! These are not, of course, your fancy TGV trains or even an Amtrak Acela. But it was a treat to watch the countryside go by from our bunk beds – we purchased four tickets, ensuring we had all four bunks to ourselves. I actually managed to fall asleep, waking up just in time to see the sunrise. Of course, one downside to riding the train is that it runs a little slower than you’d expect. We were supposed to arrive in Tangier by 8AM, but didn’t get in until just after 10:30AM. Luckily, it’s a short taxi ride from the train station to the ferry. We made it in time to clear customs, board the ship, and wave goodbye to Morocco as we crossed the Strait to Spain.

Au revoir, Morocco!

A few last tips before you go:

• Learn a little French and a little Arabic. It’ll go a long way to be able to say “Bonjour!”
• Google maps is basically useless in the winding alleyways of the Medina. Memorize turns and landmarks – I like using Café Argana, which looms over the square to the northwest and has a giant neon sign lit up brightly at night.
• Dress conservatively! The locals do, and it’ll make you feel much more comfortable and at home. It was also kind of chilly – even if it’s 90 degrees, a very dry desert 90 degrees feels more like a breezy 70. It does get very dusty though so make sure you’re wearing shoes and clothing that you don’t mind getting a little dirty.